Upbringing

Pick up

  • When you pick it up, it is best to take your puppy on a towel on your lap or on the floor near your feet. That is reassuring for the puppy, for a longer trip it is nice for him to hang a towel over his place on the highway, so that he is less distracted from all the moving things around him. In principle we are not for transporting in a bench. If you have to brake unexpectedly, the puppy will hit the wall of the bench and that is not nice. After a few months you can use the harness in the car, by pulling the harness through the harness or using an intermediate belt to secure your puppy so that he / she can safely sit on the couch.

Walk

  • You will receive a harness with strap for the first few months. The first few days will be enough to discover in your house and garden and the puppy will get used to you. So you only really have to go for a walk from the 3rd day. In the beginning, walking on the leash will be a bit difficult, the puppies know us and therefore quickly walk with us because they fully trust us. Of course they have to build this trust with their new owners. The easiest way is to teach the puppy to walk on the lead by having visible lumps with you. Give him / her a lump regularly while walking and he / she will follow you considerably better. In the meantime, you will always reward him with “well done! That’s good of you ”. In principle, the rule applies to the duration of the exhaust; the age of the puppy in months x 5 = walking minutes. (So ​​a puppy of 8 weeks = 2 months x 5 = 10 minutes can be taken). This several times a day. We often look at the signals from the puppy, one puppy has more energy than the other. If a puppy does not get enough stimuli and still has too much energy, it can “mutinate” and challenge you to get rid of its energy. The moment the puppy sits down a lot during a walk and is suddenly waiting with new things that he sees, he will be confronted with overstimulation so that you can best let the puppy sleep at home again
  • .Very important: if you ever get into the situation that your puppy is loose and there is danger (for example a car or Rottweiler) in the area, then don’t go angry and / or chase afterwards. That will be counterproductive. Go through your squats, low to the ground and very enthusiastic and overly happy calling “food or cookie or look is.” A puppy will always listen to that rather than an angry voice.Also learn to “scan” for the puppy, so look around to see if you see “danger”. The moment you see a stray pit bull, american stefford, rotweiler walking in a dominant way that you don’t trust, just lift your puppy to “just to cuddle” or just walk into a different road. This is not what they say on the puppy course, but I prefer that you get acquainted with somewhat easier and friendlier breeds than you are going to look for the danger with these breeds. If these varieties bite, they really bite and I always want to avoid that altogether. Also, it is not bad if your puppy is not best friends with horses, the moment your puppy thinks that horses are okay and not a danger, he will also think this about horses who hate dogs and will also kick or bite them when they get close to them.Also look a lot at the ground, puppies discover the world in the first few months of their life especially with their mouth. The moment poop from a sick animal or chewing gum is lying on the ground, they can also get sick of it themselves. 

Puppy school

  • Furthermore, we strongly recommend a puppy course because they learn very quickly. The puppy course is actually meant more for you than for the puppy; you must learn how to teach the pup and unlearn things. This is already possible with most courses from the age of 8 weeks. Note: it is not good for a puppy to get a lot of cookies etc. They are still babies and you do not immediately give them all sorts of cookies and sweets, the intestines cannot cope well with this. We provide a bag of practice chunks that you can use to move forward for a few weeks (around 30 chunks per day). We are also a huge fan of dried snacks without odor, color and flavors such as dried lamb hearts, duck liver, etc. (there are little doodles that respond to the proteins of chicken and beef, so avoid this).Please note that the puppy course does not work with just rewarding and ignoring bad behavior. We notice that difference enormously if corrections are made. When a puppy starts nibbling on our new carpet and we ignore his behavior, he will simply continue to enjoy it until it is broken and your puppy will do it again tomorrow, because she said nothing about it so then she can. The moment we say ‘UH UH’ twice with a low clear voice, the puppy understands that this is not the intention and by giving something that he can nibble or play with, this is immediately clear to these clever crooks and he can continue to do so nicely so that he cannot get frustrated. If your puppy tries again and the clear “UH UH” does not work, clap your hands / stamp once with your foot and immediately say with a clear voice, “DON’T MAKE HOOD”. They often get a little surprised by this, so that they stop the behavior enormously quickly and with something that is allowed to continue. It is not that the pup gets an annoying character which many courses suggest, the pup now has clarity and structure that makes him a balanced and friendly puppy.In the beginning you will have to watch your puppy very much to teach him what he can and cannot do. If you cannot pay attention to him for a moment, it is best to put him in a room such as the pantry or hallway with stair gate with a nice toy or chew stick, with which he can have fun.You may have him run after a ball a few times, but rather not consecutively, because this is already quite stressful for the puppy. Frequent slipping is also very bad for a puppy when it grows, so you have to prevent that (especially keep the hair between its soles short enough so that its soles have a grip). Also running down a hill, down the stairs, jumping out of the car is bad for their constitution. He / she may only go trimming with you or walk along the bike or practice another intensive sport when he / she is fully grown. For minis this is around 10 months. For mediums this is approximately at 14 months 

De night

At night it is best to put your puppy in a deposited area. We often hear that it is easy to make the kitchen / pantry / hall puppy proof. So put all shoes and interesting objects high and have no exciting electricity wires hanging low. If you then ensure that there is a rug, the hug with the scents of the litter, the jackdaw and a piece of artificial grass for the puddles and the poop, then it will be all right! They also often like to have a hot water bottle rolled into a towel in the bedroom, so that they don’t miss their brothers and sisters that way.

 

Then let your puppy out as late as possible in the evening and then give him a little time to do a pee and / or poo (if necessary, you can run a few laps with him through the garden, which ensures that his intestines are massaged and then almost all dogs must poop). You let him out again as early as possible in the morning. Our ritual is to hide a bit of chunks in the sleeping area so that the pups are distracted for a moment and understand that scattering in the evening means that everyone goes to sleep. There are 2 techniques of going to sleep, especially listen to what makes sense to you and feels good, then it comes with both ways: With the 1st technique you give the puppy a little more presence, so that getting used to it is easier. Often the owners then go downstairs for 2 days (or where your puppy will eventually go to sleep) on the couch or on a mattress next to your puppy, to offer her some reassurance and proximity. This way the puppy can get used to the new environments, smells and sounds a little more quietly because he is not suddenly completely alone. By applying this technique your puppy will feel much quicker at ease and will quickly realize that sleeping at night is also a normal thing for you and that you also sleep ‘boring’. This also greatly strengthens the trust relationship! Doodletjes are huge social dogs that are very happy with people in the neighborhood, so they will be satisfied sooner and will start to squeak at a minimum. It is then important not to do much more than just being present, saying a good night’s sleep is more than enough but otherwise not cuddle and continue to pet. They are also not used to going outside at night to pee. The moment you do this, the puppies will be ready and they want to play and it will take much longer before they want to go back to sleep.

 

If you do not feel comfortable with the 1st technique, you can apply this technique. You scatter or hide some lumps again, so that your puppy knows it is sleep time and you can walk away in the meantime. Your puppy is grumbling for a moment because he is suddenly completely alone. Some puppies only do this for 5 minutes, but some puppies can keep going for 40 minutes. Reassure your puppy 1 time after 10 minutes with “It’s okay, just take a nap, tomorrow we will play again” and then have him “grumble / squeak out”. It is important to adopt an attitude that it is not pathetic at all, because everyone goes to sleep “boring”. As soon as you find it too pathetic, the doodle feels this and the squeaking will take longer to make it harder for you, in the hope that you will still come and hug. We hear that the puppies can often grumble between 5 minutes and 15 minutes the first night, but if this does not produce any results and they do not receive attention, they simply sleep through the night. If after 20 minutes he starts squeaking louder and possibly staying, you can act a little louder by clapping your hands and saying in a angry voice, “UH UH JUST SLEEP.” With us they know that “clapping your hands” means that they really do something naughty.

You can also go to the vet D.A.P to get reassuring spray or the collar from D.A.P. This secretes the same pheromones that the mother dog secretes when the puppies are just born to help them get used to their new environment. You can also go to the vet D.A.P to get reassuring spray or the collar from D.A.P. This secretes the same pheromones that the mother dog secretes when the puppies are just born to help them get used to their new environment.

Teach your puppy his name 

Before you can call your puppy he must of course know what his name is, we have already practiced this enormously but 100% is not working. Learning his name is very easy with the use of a treat. In the beginning, it’s best to use his chunks as a treat. Take a handful of lumps and let the pup smell the lumps with your closed hand. Then wait for him to do something else and then call his name. When he looks at you or comes to you, you immediately say very happy “good like that” and you give him a piece. Then wait again for him to do something else and then call him again by name and reward him again immediately. Repeat this several times for 5 minutes and practice this several times a day. You will see that your puppy will know his name in no time.

Potty training

If your puppy goes home with you, he will not be 100% toilet-trained. With us they are used to peeing on the grass and not on their rugs, but this is of course different in your house. Of course, the change of scenery, new people, new smells, new colors in the beginning a bit on the nerves of your puppy so that he will often smaller pee will do. His vesicle is also very small, so he can’t hold up that long and he doesn’t know exactly where he can pee from you. So you start making this clear. During the first few days you go out every half hour, but certainly just after sleeping, after playing and after eating, to give him the chance to poop and / or pee. As soon as you see that he is doing something, you say very encouragingly “well this way” and when he is done, you say even more enthusiastically (with a high voice) “well so!” Pee outside! That’s good of you! ”And give him a lump right away. The first few days you still reward with your voice and a lump, but after a few days you reward one time with your voice and the other time with a lump because otherwise they will act as if they pee or they go small to pee. They are incredibly smart thunders, so beware! Also make sure you always walk to the same door to have him pee. After a few days you will see that when he has to pee he will walk to that door. Then let him outside quickly and reward him again very enthusiastically after he has done a pee or poo. Most puppies start to snoop around when they have to pee. Some puppies also start turning before they have to poop. So in the beginning you will have to keep a close eye on him. The better you do that, the sooner he’ll be clean.

De dominance rules for your puppy

The dominance ratio with your DoodleBelow are a few rules that you must apply from now on to teach your puppy the correct dominance ratio. You are the boss and she is all the way down in rank (but you are the very best buddies !!)

1. It must be possible at all times to take a bone or a toy from the mouth of your Doodle. You and every family member are above your Doodle in the ranking. If you “respect” her property, she has a sense of power and the feeling that she is the boss in the house. Any form of growling or being mean is absolutely not permissible for a Doodle! Make this clear immediately by saying “uh-uh” and take it away. Practice this a number of times so that she learns that growling is not working! We start with this from the 3 weeks, something can grab without growling should be possible otherwise she does not respect you. Also while eating meat, by stirring your fingers a little through the meat and rewarding it with “good like that” you ensure an always friendly dog.

2. Decide for yourself which direction you are heading and how fast you want to walk. The pup does not determine the direction. If she pulls, you stop walking or even go the other way. This way your puppy does not achieve what it wants to achieve by pulling. There are also easy harnesses that you attach to the belt on the chest so that he would pull himself at an angle and therefore less likely to pull: http://www.zooplus.nl/shop/honden/halsband_lijn/tuigen/verdere/612486 2. Let her sit regularly on the leash next to you during the walk and then reward her for this.

3. You can start practicing mental preparation for coat care from 8 weeks. Start with a normal hairbrush and let her accept that brushing is needed and that no bites or grumbles are made to the brush. When brushing, place her on her side and wait until she lies down. When your puppy is used to brushing, you can easily remove clots on her belly and in the armpits in the future. Also lightly hold the snout every day to remove the eye soup. In this way she will learn to keep her head still when brushing and cutting the head! 5. If your Doodle shows undesirable behavior:

1st warning: verbal (uh-uh / foei)

2nd warning: push away and say uh-uh

3rd warning: By clapping your hands / stamping on the floor

4th action: If he really doesn’t want to listen and is making something broken, then stop paying attention, go to another room and ignore it.

Doodles en cat’s

We always hear very positive stories about getting used to doodle babies with cats. It is often up to the cat whether she is quite fast or quite slow in allowing something new. The puppies are often friendly and very interested in cats, one cat finds the puppy a bit too close and then gives it a go, the other cat finds it good sooner so that they can live well together. The tip is: give them time to get used to each other, then sooner or later it will always be good and they will even become best buddies!  

Unlearn Undesirable bahavior

  • Australian labradoodles are actually just 4 year old children; if you do not state what undesirable behavior is they will continue to cheerfully continue to do so (in this they are clearly different from other dog breeds, where you must ignore negative behavior). If a 4 year old child is drawing on your white walls and you say nothing about it, they will continue to use it until they get tired. You will really have to address that, that is really not the intention and provide a piece of paper with the words that they can draw on it. That’s how it works with Australian Labradoodles; You indicate unwanted behavior and at the same time you indicate what is allowed.Biting your pants or hands is not allowed, biting a bone is allowed. So when he bites your pants / hand, you immediately respond with a serious angry voice “Uh-uh! Don’t bite! ”You immediately grab a bite toy, bone, flostouw or twig and wiggle it back and forth in front of his nose, so that he tackles the bone with his mouth and then you say very happy (= high voice)“ Good! You can bite into that ”. If he continues to do it, then you are not doing it seriously enough.If he is barking or growling at people or other dogs when he’s on a leash, give him a little jerk and tell him in an angry voice “uh-uh” and that he can’t! Don’t reassure him by stroking him or talking sweetly to him, because then you will reward him for growling at other people!If your doodle bumps into you, you learn this by saying it “sit” every time and let her sit. Only when she sits, then you quote her. Keep repeating this and eventually they will sit wagging happily! It also works to ask visitors to first walk to the living room and first greet everyone or get a drink and then have your doodle quoted, this is extremely difficult but works well.
  • So you call negative behavior serious with an angry low voice and positive behavior rewards you very enthusiastically with a happy high voice and a hug. That way your doodle will learn 3x as fast as other dog breeds. If you ignore unwanted behavior, your doodle will learn 3x as slowly.

Help! Our puppy bites!

  • When your doodle bites, first try to solve this by saying the first 4x angrily and clearly “UHUH” and offering another toy. If he continues to bite, you put your puppy on his back for a moment (this is done in mother’s pack and nature) and speak briefly strictly. If you have repeated this a few times, he will not do it again.
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What can I do about barking? 

Our experience is that it is best to tackle barking directly instead of ignoring it. As soon as your doodle starts barking, respond immediately by saying “UHUH” in an angry voice. You can keep this 3x full. If he continues to bark afterwards, you throw down a PET bottle filled with a layer of macaroni / rice right next to him and you say very strictly “Uh-uh, DON’T BAKE” that scares him. You repeat this a few times if he wants to bark. If he responds well to this, you reward him for this. (If you do not have a PET bottle with you, you clap your hands 2x hard and you also say very strictly “DO NOT BAKE”. So he learns from you that this is not a desirable behavior and he will not do it anymore.

How do I prevent my dog from eating poop?

You can practice this by first letting him out on a leash for a long time and training in the meantime, by letting him walk along the shit, always saying very strictly “UHUH, EATING NO POD”. If it then continues neatly, you will reward it very enthusiastically with a piece of dried liver, etc. At some point you will notice that he will look at you when he sees faeces. That is also the moment when you can let go of it again sweetly when you let it out, while you have to keep an eye on it.

It may also be that he does this out of instinct. Dogs that themselves often defecate thin do not have such a strong intestinal flora. By eating faeces from other dogs, they can improve their own intestinal flora. In this case you can give him 1 tablespoon of low-fat yogurt or low-fat curd cheese in the morning, so that his intestinal flora improves. There are also various probiotics for dogs that improve the intestinal flora. Furthermore, frozen meat is very good because it contains the bacteria that are necessary for a good intestinal flora (chunks are prepared so sterile that there are no bacteria in them at all). It may also be that a dog receives food that contains too little fiber, which means that it starts eating faeces from other dogs to get them. In this case it is best to put 1 tablespoon of green beans / canned brussels sprouts through his food so that he will get enough fiber again.

Can I remove the water bowl from 9 p.m.?

No absolutely not! Your puppy must be able to access fresh water at all times. It may be that during the day he has eaten something very salty from the street and then he must be able to drink water. It used to be said that after 9 p.m. you should not give more water because it makes sense earlier. However, you achieve that as soon as he can go to water again, he will drink much more than usual and will walk to the water bowl more often than usual, for fear that he will not be able to drink again for a very long time, with the result that he has to pee much more than usual. His urine will also become too concentrated during the night, thereby becoming more basic so that the bad bacteria can start to grow and this can lead to a bladder infection.

My doodle pulls on the belt enormously, how can I unlearn it?

Your doodle apparently does not have the idea that you are her boss and that she must obey you and therefore also follow you. She clearly takes the lead herself. For now you can order a harness from Martin Gaus that works against pulling. The eye to which you attach the line is on 1 of her shoulders so that when she pulls, she pulls herself crooked and she does not reach her goal (fast windshield). If you notice that she no longer pulls because the line stays in a curve, you reward her very enthusiastically for this. http://www.zooplus.nl/shop/honden/halsband_lijn/tuigen/verdere/612486 orhttp://www.martingauswebshop.nl/products/Mazter-Lead-anti%252dtrektuig%2Clead.html